ISSN 2285-5750, ISSN CD-ROM 2285-5769, ISSN-L 2285-5750, ISSN Online: 2393 – 2260
 

Researches concerning the organization of a craft manufactory for processingunreeling silk cocoons

Published in Scientific Papers. Series D. Animal Science, Vol. LV
Written by Viorica SLĂDESCU, Georgeta DINIȚĂ, Claudia MUȘAT, Alexandra MATEI

In the Romanian village the artisanal crafts were always a cultural-artistic and economic activity, which material and spiritual filled in the rural community. The existence of textile raw materials and some of other sources in the sericultural (family) microfarm requires only a correct stimulation of the crafts in the direction of activity development on the basis of economic and aesthetic orientation, of what specialists call Romanian “ethnodesign”. The paper aims to present the organization of a craft manufactory for processing the unreeling silk cocoons from wastes of the technological process in the obtaining the reproduction biologic material, Bombyx mori L. Species. Such a technological model has been omologated and it works in the sericultural microfarm of Niculescu family from Stoenesti– Valcea. Its completion assumed the selection of some ways of processing the textile raw materials into fabrics and handicraft objects under conditions of simple technologies, as well as the documentary study on a minimum machinery inventory for a textile manufactory, structural, technological and economic adapted and integrated in the management of the reproduction sericultural microfarm. The activities carried out in the frame of craft manufactory are based on textile techniques and technologies of processing, dyeing, weaving, wickerwork, sewing, node making and finishing the raw materials from wastes and the sericultural by-products. By processing the textile material in the craft manufactory, the researchers have established a flow based on two technologies and six techniques of treatment, by which three types of yarns were obtained (by hand-made reeling) with 15 chromatic variants. By using the obtained yarns three prototypes of “basse-lisse” weavings have been created (thin fabrics type designed for spring-summer garments). Following the applicative researches carried out in the laboratories of National University of Arts Bucharest, for the craft manufactory two technologies and six techniques of textile material processing have been selected. Four types of yarn (by hand-made reeling) in 24 chromatic variants have been achieved. There have been elaborated the technological processes of three weaving prototypes, “basse-lisse” texture having the technical parameters in the category of thin abrics designed for spring-summer garments.

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